Perfume Project 2026: Chasing the Unknown (Part 1 of 4)
In 2026, I decided to impose a constraint on my perfume journey.
Not because I lack options — my collection already includes works from some of the greatest perfumers in history: Dominique Ropion, Bertrand Duchaufour, Antoine Lie, and others. But that’s exactly the problem. It’s easy to stay within the comfort zone of proven brilliance.
So this year, I’m doing the opposite.
Every perfume I buy must be from a perfumer I’ve never owned before.
Four posts. One every three months. Each featuring new perfumers, new compositions, and first impressions. By design, every fragrance I mention is my only exposure to that perfumer — at least for now.
This is Part 1.
Etat Libre d’Orange — Jasmin et Cigarette
Perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu
Antoine Maisondieu is far from obscure. His portfolio includes heavy hitters like Armani Code, Valentino Uomo, Tom Ford Velvet Orchid, and ELDO’s cult favorite Fat Electrician. His signature toolkit leans toward bergamot, iris, clary sage, musk, cedarwood, jasmine sambac, and sandalwood.
So expectations were… high.
Jasmin et Cigarette is one of those names that sells a very specific fantasy: the contrast of lush white florals with the gritty, addictive edge of tobacco. But tobacco itself is a spectrum — green, leafy, dry, smoky, or fully combusted.
This fragrance opens beautifully. A soft, slightly sweet jasmine — not gourmand, not cloying, just smooth and inviting. It’s immediately wearable and polished.
The tobacco? It shows up later, in the drydown — but quietly. Too quietly.
For a fragrance that promises a duet, the balance feels off. Jasmine clearly takes center stage, while tobacco lingers more like a background extra than a co-lead.
Notes: Top: Clary Sage, Galbanum Heart: Jasmine, Turmeric Base: Mate, Tonka
Verdict: Elegant, but conceptually underdelivered. I wanted tension; I got harmony.
Goutal — Sables
Perfumer: Annick Goutal
Image Credit: fragrance.com
Annick Goutal, to me, reads like a master of citrus composition. Her most-used materials — tangerine, neroli, bitter orange, lemon, mandarin leaf — paint a clear stylistic signature, often accented with herbal touches like basil and mint.
She may not have churned out hundreds of fragrances, but her influence is undeniable. The house she founded — now simply Goutal — is a staple in perfumery.
Sables breaks from her citrus-forward identity.
This is a spicy-woody fragrance with a warm, almost sunbaked personality.
Notes: Top: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange Heart: Black Pepper, Jasmine, Oakmoss Base: Immortelle, Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla
What stands out is the immortelle-amber combination. It creates a dry, slightly sweet, almost “barnyard” warmth — think sun-dried hay, golden fields, and heat radiating off the ground.
There’s something rustic and atmospheric about it. Not conventionally “fresh” or “clean,” but deeply evocative.
Verdict: Solar, textured, and quietly addictive. This one grows on you.
Frederic Malle — Noir Epices
Perfumer: Michel Roudnitska
Michel Roudnitska carries a legendary surname — he’s the son of Edmond Roudnitska, one of the greatest perfumers and teachers in history.
I’ll be honest: I bought this out of curiosity. What does a Roudnitska smell like today?
Noir Epices answers that question with… spice. A lot of it.
This is less a fragrance and more a spice cabinet unleashed:
Clove. Nutmeg. Cinnamon. Black pepper. Dry, warm, and unapologetically dense — all concentrated in the heart.
The top and base? Barely perceptible under the weight of the spice core.
It’s intense, introspective, and slightly challenging. The kind of scent you admire more than you wear socially.
Verdict: Fascinating, but personal. This is for me — not for compliments.
That’s Part 1 of this year-long experiment.
Three new perfumers. Three very different directions. And already, one pattern is clear: stepping outside your “known greats” doesn’t guarantee better — or worse — but it definitely makes things more interesting.